The main 6 fabrics in tailoring

The wool fibre is found in the fleece of sheep. Fine wools come from the Merino breed and the number 1 producer is Australia. Wool is a light fibre but can be woven heavy. It has the ability to absorb humidity and is an insulator. The Super number is a grade of fineness. Super 100’s to 190’s are typical and ideal for bespoke suiting. Normally off the peg wools will be either lower in super number or a mix of wool and synthetics (plastic) which heats up, stores heat and and makes the wearer hot.

Mohair is from the Angora goat the main producer of which is South Africa. Often referred to as the diamond fibre due to its occasional sparkle and two tone affect. The finished material can be smooth and hard wearing. Adult Mohair makes out into very interesting fabric for suiting and the finer Kid Mohair is often blended with wool for jacketing.

Cashmere is from the undercoat of the Falconari goat found at 16,500 ft above sea level, a little over half way to the top of Mt Everest and as such incredibly difficult to harvest. The conditions in which the fibre is grown adds to its fineness and it is the finest fibre on earth. This gives the most amazing insulation and temperature regulating properties as well as the very softest touch available.

The Bombyx spins its self a type of cocoon. After harvesting and soaking in warm water the cocoon can be unwound and typically one cocoon and unravel up to 1 mile of continuous fibre. Silk is famous for it’s sheen and smooth finish but also has fantastic insulation properties and can be woven in a mix with wool ideal for jacketing.

Linen is a vegetable fibre produced in most of the northern hemisphere. It’s very hard wearing, has the ability to keep the wearer very cool and is great as a mix will wool to prevent as much creasing. That said linen should be chosen because of it’s creased look not inspire of it. The two piece with a panama hat is a very dapper look in the right weather.

Cotton comes from the cotton plant. Ideal for shirting and trousering the material is typically strong, soft and cool in the summer but warm in the winter. The best plants are in Egypt and the Caribbean.